Enjoying France

We are staying in Ande, a village in Normandy, 100 km downstream from Paris, on a loop of the Seine. It’s a small, sleepy village that is not on the tourist trail. Staying in a converted barn we feel as if we live here, rather than just staying here. It’s our third time here in a year so we are getting to know it well.

The barn we are staying in was originally the studio for the Russian painter Vladimir Bougrine. He has been associated with the village since the 1970′s because of the Moulin d’Ande. The mill was probably constructed at the end of the XIIth century. It is the last known example of a “moulin pendant” and is classified as a historic monument with its pulleys, millstones, wallowers and screw jacks. The Moulin d’Andé was in its original state when Suzanne Lipinska went to live there in 1957 and decided to develop its cultural potential by opening it up to artists and intellectuals whose personal and creative endeavours would flourish, far from the stir of Paris.

The village has a special feel because of the Mill and because of the shut in feeling you get in French villages, particularly here. Many of the buildings are old, often converted barns or improved farmhouses built around courtyards with high enclosing walls and solid gates. You see nothing beyond the walls. You can, however, hear the many dogs barking. The french have an obsession with security resulting in fiercesome dogs on the loose behind the gates along the street. It can be unpleasant to walk around the village.

There are, however, benefits to living here:

1. Croissants

Fresh croissants in the morning, so french and an amazing start to the day. I get up early and pop down to the shop for them. Unfortunately there is not a local baker to enjoy. The delights of a french ‘Boulangerie Patisserie’ is the main reason for loving France. Sneaking a ‘Pain au Chocolat’ warm from the oven on the way back to the house with breakfast is a delight not easily surpassed.

2. Wine

This is France, one of the greatest wine countries in the world! Although California now produces great wine, there is a different quality to the plentiful, cheap wine sold in supermarkets here. It seems so natural to drink it with every meal.

3. Walks

There are beautiful country walks out of the village, through the fields and down by the church. There is a particularly lovely walk along the opposite bank of the river past the weekend houses of the well-off Bourgoisie from Paris.

4. Peace

Despite the dogs it is very quiet and peaceful here. Most of the time there seems to be no-one around, but I think that is true of most of rural France. France has the lowest population density of any country in Western Europe and that is particularly evident in rural areas.

5. Views

There are some stunning views along the valley carved by the River Seine. The river has cut deeply into the chalk plateau in great loops leaving exposed cliffs and old cut off loops of the river. (If I remember my geography correctly there are called ox-bow lakes!)

6. Unspoilt Buildings

Like much of France, most of the old buildings appear to be unspoilt. This partly because the layers of French Bureaucracy involved in getting a ‘Permis de Construire’. Even painting a house can be a nightmare, as you can see from the number of unpainted houses around. It also helps that young french people prefer to live in new houses, leaving the old ones to rot and be bought by the English abroad.

7. Galettes & Crepes

In the local town Louviers, there is a lovely little restaurant that serves galettes and crepes. Galette are savoury pancakes made with buckwheat with fried eggs, cheese and other delights. Crepes are more delicate wheat pancakes with sweet fillings such a bananas, chocolate, cream, strawberries and so on. Mmmmm, delicious.

8. Cathedrals

There are many within a day’s drive, including Rouen, Beauvais, Amiens, and the greatest of them all, Chartes. One of the greatest achievements in the history of architecture, Chartres Cathedral is almost perfectly preserved in its original medieval design, from its famed portal sculptures to glowing stained glass. (You may have noticed from my posts that I love cathedrals!)

9. Paris

It’s close enough to visit, but far enough away to be thought of as distant!

10. Local Events

Great events such as ‘Le Cochon Grille’ as part of ‘La Fete du Village’, ‘Jazz Sixties’ a free afternoon’s music in the local church and a historic walk around the village complete with motorcyle gathering and a parade of ‘vehicules militaire’. A couple of houses down there is an art gallery with exhibitions of local artists. Lastly there are regular musical events at the Moulin complete with aperitif and dinner.

I would be interested to know if anyone else has visited here? Let me know in the comments!

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@earth_pilgrim @chetaurmila