Graham and I went on a three day cycle trip through Zeeland in the Netherlands. Zeeland is at the western edge of the country, at its boundary with the North Sea. The Netherlands has grown as a country protecting itself from the sea, from its ravages. The tough, resilient nature of the Dutch people has been defined by this battle with nature.

Going sightseeing on a bicycle is quite different from going sightseeing in a car, especially in the Netherlands, where 95% of the roads have designated cycle tracks and where many purely cycle roads exist. Through forest and field the cycle paths deviate from the roads, allowing for a relaxing time surrounded by nature without the noise and smell of cars.

We chose to cycle across the famous Delta Works, the sentinels of the country. The Delta Works are the latest technical marvel installed to hold back the sea. These great dams open and close allowing sea life to continue within this boundary while holding back the mass of water. Having travelled this long road, the only road along the coast, countless times by car, I thought I was familiar with the skyline of the giant steel structures reaching towards the sky.

This time things were very different, however. Much to my surprise, the cycle path ran over the top of the water works and along the highest point of the dikes. From high up the view is magnificent. To see the land stretching off to one side and the water on the other is very impressive. In one glance it became very clear that the water level of the North Sea is higher than the land of the Netherlands. You see why it is called “The Low Countries”. The difference in level is substantial and, when you see the sea stretching into the distance, quite frightening.

Graham is totally fascinated by the scale of what has been achieved here in regards to the protection of the land. I am too, but not to that extent. Being Dutch I have learned so much about it in school, I have come to regard it as normal. “The Netherlands lies below sea level” has become a noun that has lost its meaning, much like band names such as AC/DC or the Beatles have lost their original meaning. Who thinks of the little animals when we mention The Beatles?

Sharing this tour with Graham has made this part of the Netherlands come alive. It has also left me hovering between feeling proud regarding the giant steel constructions, a tribute to the power of man, and feeling fragile… will this last? One leak and all this land will be swallowed by water…

I went back to the UK for a week and took my bike with me. Going for a long ride I realised I had forgotten the difference with Holland:

In England you are either going up or down, you are never flat. That’s why the Dutch don’t seem to develop muscles when cycling.

In England there are cars – everywhere. (More coming on this!)

In England there are hedges! You can’t see the country you are cycling through. In Holland you have views, great views, even if they are flat!

When I first came here, as a car driver, I was shocked by the danger – to me. The culture is completely different, and difficult to get used to. If you are going to spend any time here you need to get used to it quickly.

1. No matter what happens you, the driver, are at fault. The law states so. This quickly becomes obvious. Cyclists just cycle wherever they want and totally ignore cars. You have to watch out for them or you will have an accident and then you are in trouble!
2. Mostly cycles are on dedicated cycle paths, safe from you, but there are real problems when they cross each other. Generally the cycle paths have priority and are marked as such. This is, for me, a real issue on the exits to roundabouts where I expect to drive unhindered. I was amazed to see that you have to stop, on the roundabout, and let cyclists through. This is dangerous for cars!
3. Often the cyclists were making eye contact with the driver, as they thought! I am in a right hand drive, British, car and they were looking at the passenger thinking they had been seen. Wow, eventually I realised what was happening and I found I had to look everywhere.

I thought I was home and dry until I realised I had an equal problem with other car drivers. Holland still works on the law that cars coming from the right have priority, even if it is a local road. I had a number of close shaves thinking I was safe on a main road.

There’s a lot to understanding other cultures, but once you get there it is great fun. I am getting fitter and browner in the summer sun cycling everywhere. Perhaps Spain will be OK for cycling too – although I have heard the drivers there just completely ignore cyclists – maybe that’s why they don’t really exist.

We’ll see!

It is frighteningly bold colour that denotes aggression tempered with cheerfulness. It’s the colour of the setting sun with all it’s power and beauty. It’s the colour of fire. The dutch show their total lack of taste in displaying it everywhere.

For me, coming from Britain, it has rather shocking connotations that create a totally different feel from the fun in Holland. My family are from Glasgow and before that Northern Ireland. We from a Protestant family, part of the ‘Plantation’ of Northern Ireland. This started as far back as Oliver Cromwell (1599-1688) who gave his troops tracts of land in Ireland to pay them off at the end of the English Civil War. Thus started a conflict that persists in Ireland still.

The situation was further engrained into popular mythology by the involvement of King Billy, as he is known. King William III of Orange (1650-1702) was ruler of Holland and, in order to defend Holland from the French, became involved with a struggle for the English, Irish and Scottish thrones against King James, a Catholic. He prevailed at the famous Battle of the Boyne in Ireland and became the saviour of the protestant/loyalist cause in Northern Ireland.

So, bizarrely, the colour of fun and pride in Holland has become a colour of hatred and bigotry in Northern Ireland.

So while I celebrate with the dutch football fans I remember the deaths and the hatred over hundreds of years involving the Loyal Orange Order in peculiar homage to a dutch King. But understand it… no, never.

(Thanks to Cheta Urmila for the photographs from Holland.)

In it I detail the practical steps I take to enable my travellling life as an Earth Pilgrim. Concerning luggage, I say, “Get 2 (and only 2) bags that are tough and not too big, for all your travel ’stuff’. In today’s increasingly difficult travel world baggage has become a dirty word with airlines. The big one, for check-in should be a maximum of 20kgs and the small one 7kgs, although I’m usually around 10kgs.“

You see I am not a backpacker. I stay in houses, apartments and hotels. I take my life with me, and I love it.

I had a comment on the site that said, “No one with any sense would ever carry up to 27 kg of bags around the world. I’m planning a trip at the end of the year and my target is 7 kg (just a carry-on).” Well I hate to dis-abuse this commenter, I am in right mind, and I do take that luggage around with me. Why, just because I am travelling, should I be subject to the luggage police for whom ‘travel‘ is about fighting through dirt and chaos with your load on your back.

I take my hat off to people that do it and I don’t criticise them, so please don’t force your model of the world on to me!

Oh, and BTW, you can buy an extra bag on your journey.

The barn we are staying in was originally the studio for the Russian painter Vladimir Bougrine. He has been associated with the village since the 1970′s because of the Moulin d’Ande. The mill was probably constructed at the end of the XIIth century. It is the last known example of a “moulin pendant” and is classified as a historic monument with its pulleys, millstones, wallowers and screw jacks. The Moulin d’Andé was in its original state when Suzanne Lipinska went to live there in 1957 and decided to develop its cultural potential by opening it up to artists and intellectuals whose personal and creative endeavours would flourish, far from the stir of Paris.

The village has a special feel because of the Mill and because of the shut in feeling you get in French villages, particularly here. Many of the buildings are old, often converted barns or improved farmhouses built around courtyards with high enclosing walls and solid gates. You see nothing beyond the walls. You can, however, hear the many dogs barking. The french have an obsession with security resulting in fiercesome dogs on the loose behind the gates along the street. It can be unpleasant to walk around the village.

There are, however, benefits to living here:

1. Croissants

Fresh croissants in the morning, so french and an amazing start to the day. I get up early and pop down to the shop for them. Unfortunately there is not a local baker to enjoy. The delights of a french ‘Boulangerie Patisserie’ is the main reason for loving France. Sneaking a ‘Pain au Chocolat’ warm from the oven on the way back to the house with breakfast is a delight not easily surpassed.

2. Wine

This is France, one of the greatest wine countries in the world! Although California now produces great wine, there is a different quality to the plentiful, cheap wine sold in supermarkets here. It seems so natural to drink it with every meal.

3. Walks

There are beautiful country walks out of the village, through the fields and down by the church. There is a particularly lovely walk along the opposite bank of the river past the weekend houses of the well-off Bourgoisie from Paris.

4. Peace

Despite the dogs it is very quiet and peaceful here. Most of the time there seems to be no-one around, but I think that is true of most of rural France. France has the lowest population density of any country in Western Europe and that is particularly evident in rural areas.

5. Views

There are some stunning views along the valley carved by the River Seine. The river has cut deeply into the chalk plateau in great loops leaving exposed cliffs and old cut off loops of the river. (If I remember my geography correctly there are called ox-bow lakes!)

6. Unspoilt Buildings

Like much of France, most of the old buildings appear to be unspoilt. This partly because the layers of French Bureaucracy involved in getting a ‘Permis de Construire’. Even painting a house can be a nightmare, as you can see from the number of unpainted houses around. It also helps that young french people prefer to live in new houses, leaving the old ones to rot and be bought by the English abroad.

7. Galettes & Crepes

In the local town Louviers, there is a lovely little restaurant that serves galettes and crepes. Galette are savoury pancakes made with buckwheat with fried eggs, cheese and other delights. Crepes are more delicate wheat pancakes with sweet fillings such a bananas, chocolate, cream, strawberries and so on. Mmmmm, delicious.

8. Cathedrals

There are many within a day’s drive, including Rouen, Beauvais, Amiens, and the greatest of them all, Chartes. One of the greatest achievements in the history of architecture, Chartres Cathedral is almost perfectly preserved in its original medieval design, from its famed portal sculptures to glowing stained glass. (You may have noticed from my posts that I love cathedrals!)

9. Paris

It’s close enough to visit, but far enough away to be thought of as distant!

10. Local Events

Great events such as ‘Le Cochon Grille’ as part of ‘La Fete du Village’, ‘Jazz Sixties’ a free afternoon’s music in the local church and a historic walk around the village complete with motorcyle gathering and a parade of ‘vehicules militaire’. A couple of houses down there is an art gallery with exhibitions of local artists. Lastly there are regular musical events at the Moulin complete with aperitif and dinner.

I would be interested to know if anyone else has visited here? Let me know in the comments!

Cheta and I took a couple of days out in Paris to explore and discover. We had both been to Paris before a number of times, but this was our first time together. It felt like an important step to take in our relationship, can we enjoy all that the city has to offer and enjoy each others company?

We drove down from Belgium and visited Waterloo and the Somme on the way. We parked in Beauvais and got the train into Gare du Nord. This is a big, raucous station that is made worse by construction and soup kitchens. We got a taxi to our hotel near Place de Clichy after suffering the cigarette smokers in the queue. Note: next time just get the Metro, it’s probably quicker.

Our hotel was a great little two star, Hotel Beausejour Montmatre, well worth a stay. Round the corner was life and cafes, in the hotel was a garden and silence, what a combination. We started round the corner at a cafe with a pastis, life as it should be led in Paris.

Next morning it’s the start of our 2 day walking/metro tour. It’s idiosyncratic but deep in the heart of the city. In brief this is what we did:

1. Sacre Coeur, Montmartre

This is a great place to start the tour. A fabulous view over most of Paris, particularly in the sunshine, and a feeling of how it used to be in Montmartre. I know it’s just a tourist trap now but you can use your imagination. The inside of the church is not really worth the time, it’s new and fairly uninteresting. But what a fabulous exterior.

2. Pantheon

I had hoped to see the wonderful effects of sunlight in the interior… but that turns out to be the Pantheon in Rome! A beautiful exterior in amongst the buildings of the Sorbonne but a dull building inside. It just shows you that you can’t make a secular mausoleum interesting, a church has more life about it!!

3. Jardin du Luxembourg

Walking distance from the Pantheon and a great resting place on a hot afternoon. The place is full of Parisiens lounging around on chairs, eating, drinking and smoking. They know how to enjoy the outdoors. On the way here we passed an Air France shop and witnessed scuffles in the queue as people tried to get in to book flights during this volcanoed, flightless weekend.

4. Tour Eiffel

An essential visit even just to experience the scale of it. We didn’t go up it, just marvelled at it. We dodged the Serbian beggars and the North African souvenir sellers and retired to gardens in the Champ de Mars as the sun fell in the sky. We were surrounded by people lying in the grass waiting. Then the lights came on closely followed by the sparkles. It was magic and from the noticeable reaction from the crowd, that was what they were there for too. An essential visit at sunset.

5. Institut du Monde Arabe

This is the most magical building in Paris, a modern marvel that shows what you can do successfully with modern architecture. It looks harmless from the outside but has an amazing view from its roof terrace of Notre Dame and the Ile de la Cite. Inside it is a meccano lovers dream. You walk amongst the structure and marvel at the wall of irises shielding the contents from the sun. It takes its heart from traditional arabic architecture and makes it exciting.

6. Left Bank

You walk along the Rive Gauche on your way to Notre Dame. There are the bookstalls or there is just the river bank to enjoy and relax on. Much of the enjoyment of the city is the ability to relax in it, take in your surroundings and just be. We stopped and ate on a boat in the river under the eyes of Notre Dame.

7. Notre Dame

Another must-see in Paris. In this case it is the inside that is stunning. Like us go inside and sit, for a long time. Absorb the energy of the building and the millions of people who have gone before you. Relax and soak it up. There is something magical about the inside of a great gothic cathedral. The fusion of architecture and light create a numinous atmosphere which cannot be matched. Sit and feel your place in the order of things and love it. Feel your aconnection with the Universe and everything in it. Love it.

8. Centre Pompidou

“And now for something completely different!” The way this building sticks its arse out at the world is, for me, an insult. Architecture should be intellectual like this, it should have some regard for its form. The building is ugly and impossible to love. The square is great, despite the building. Go and see the Museum of Modern Art in Barcelona. That too has a great square but with a modern building that has some class. I have not been inside Pompidou, maybe that works…

9. Moulin Rouge

We both love the theatre and a visit to the Moulin Rouge is essential. The place is really tacky and the show is, well what can I say… its tacky too. But here you can see the roots of ‘Prisiclla, Queen of the Desert’ and ‘Cirque du Soleil’. Drag Queens put more fun into it and CdS is just magnificant. Nevertheless MR has a charm and lots of bare tits, go and and see them, they are good!

10. Metro

The Paris Metro is great, on a par with the London Underground. There are bouncy trains on tires, old rickety trains and modern plush ones. You can go where you want, we kept going to Stalingrad, reminders of napoleon and failure, typically french.

Punctuating the trip were numerous visits to cafes for food, drink and atmosphere. They are critical to your enjoyment.

Cheta has also written on this trip see ‘All’s Quiet in Paris‘.

I know for a lot of you the erupting volcano ruined your travel plans, yet for me it was such a gift that there were no planes up in the sky during our stay! Because, as a result of that, like a cloud of dust, the usual whirl of energy settled down and it got QUIET. The background-energy in the city was so peaceful and relaxed… People just stayed where they were, had given up attempting to get to somewhere else. It felt like one of these 1970′s long lazy sunday afternoons…

At our leisure, we visited an eclectic collection of buildings, modern and ancient. Next to must-sees like the Sacre Coeur, the Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower, we admired unfamiliar gems like the excavations below the Notre Dame square and the Arab World Institute.

The modern architecture of the Arab World Institute doesn’t look all that special at first sight, yet it has surprising features. It combines the latest technology and techniques with traditional Arab architecture. The southern façade is decorated with a translucent ornament of steel reminding the moucharabiehs. Here however, this geometric pattern is made of 240 diaphragms opening or closing according to the sun, thanks to a light-cell, to let in enough light without harming art pieces exhibited. On the inside a walkway allows you to watch the mechanism up close. Fascinating!

On the top floor you’ll find a roof terras that provides an spectacular view of the city, from the Notre Dame on one end all the way to the Sacre Coeur - hovering over the Centre Pompidou – on the other; especially under a clear blue sky:-) See for yourself next time you’re in Paris (1, rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, Place Mohammed V, 75236 PARIS CEDEX 05, Metro line 7 or 10, station Jussieu).

On our last evening we went to see the famous Moulin Rouge show; quite a spectacle as well. I’d expected all glamour and glitter inside, yet the theatre was very old. The show was great – I have always admired feathers and shiny stones!

Yesterday we drove down to Normandy, to start our next housesit. And today – back to work…  The MoonScout preparations are in full swing; soon to be launched: MirroroftheMoonGoddess.com and the start of the ticket sales for the show on June 21st in Tilburg.

To keep up with this try HashTags/ashtag.

This was on Facebook:

Katharine Dever On a boat crossing the Irish sea! Both my flights cancelled so this is plan c! 8 hour taxi ride from Scotland at 1 am to get me to the event for 9 am…everything crossed! Xx

These are all from Twitter:

FakoGirl Is Iceland now called Waterland? #ashtag #immelting

derekmizak Taking in to account how ash situation is changing Europe will be down for a few more days #ashtag

jchernov The #ashtag hashtag is so damn clever.

gislio Air #travel: Long lines at Calais ferry terminal. Busses waiting to bring ppl to UK. At least there is WIFI. #icerupt #ashtag

darenBBC I was told in major European cities, there are no hire cars, at all. I love this stuff #ashtag

quixoticgeek Some volcanoes erupt for months, even years at a time. What happens if this one does so? Can the world cope without air travel? #ashtag

Sami_Dawn “Buggeringbollickingfuck” is QOTD from @StellaF re the whole #ashtag situ, fyi…

twirus_scand Top5 popular tags: 1^ #ffnor 2^ #ashtag 3^ #facebook 4^ #music 5^ #lastfm http://scandinavia.twirus.com

max_naylor feels sorry for anyone stranded but this volcano needs to vent #icerupt #ashtag

IHphoto Shows just how parochial and self absorbed we are here that #ashtag registers higher than 1100 people killed by Tibet #earthquake

AmeliaGregory I’ve blogged about the spectacular eruption of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano in Iceland http://tinyurl.com/y3mxm69 & why I love it #ashtag

negaratduke Norwegian PM runs country with his iPad #ashtag http://tinyurl.com/yyulrkb cc @rahafharfoush

pauldavies7 RT @loudmouthman: just waiting for the Daily Mail “Iclanders Unleash Economic crippling sky attack ash cloud in finance retribution” headline #ashtag

mutster101 So, who’s going to take a crack at pronouncing the part of Iceland the eruption was in? #ashtag

charlie_spotted “Sorry Boss, couldn’t get to work today. My train was cancelled. Volcanic Ash on the line.” Think that’ll work? Too soon? #ashtag

alanbrookland Hey Iceland! Ok, we get it, you don’t want to pay off the debt. Lay off the volcano weapons! #ashtag

Barnfee I bet BA’s gutted that this didn’t happen during the strike. #ashtag

qikipedia: The 1783 Icelandic #ashcloud caused record low levels in the Nile; Japan suffered the third worst famine in its history #ashtag

qikipedia: “The skies were clogged with ash: a summer when the sun never shone ..one of the worst winters in living memory”- B. FRANKLIN #ashtag

ponddrop ARRH! Sister must arrive! Want to have baby, dammit! #ashtag #stupidvolcano

MikeTheRelic Huge grey cloud settles over Scotland. No-one notices. #ashtag

JamesTLowe So, no flights permitted in UK Controlled Airspace from Midday, until 1800. That’s unprecedented in my memory. http://bit.ly/mIaXL #ashtag

kiwanja Ghost town: British Airways T5 check-in. No flights even being re-booked for tomorrow, apparently. #ashtag http://twitpic.com/1fqdnd

benmarsh: I’ve set up a #ukash map (#uksnow style) at http://ukash.benmarsh.co.uk – Send your reports and photos! :) Please RT #ashtag #ukvolcano

CopyrightGirl When I used my Bank of Iceland debit card in Asda they asked if I wanted any ashback… #ashtag

janinegibson: Now Denmark is closed. #ashtag http://bit.ly/c3ndb6

mckennamiller Plane delayed due to #fuckingvolcano #ashtag (@ Baltimore Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport (BWI) w/ 6 others)

Sami_Dawn “Buggeringbollickingfuck” is QOTD from @StellaF re the whole #ashtag situ, fyi…

quixoticgeek Some volcanoes erupt for months, even years at a time. What happens if this one does so? Can the world cope without air travel? #ashtag

The previous day was one of those magic days you get when travelling. It was full of unexpected pleasure and it helps to make sense of why we travel and what we are seeking when we do it.

We stopped off in Ireland on our way from Chicago to London to visit a church I am designing the lighting for. The church is in Adare, a beautiful little village on the west coast of Ireland. It is an old church originating from the 13th century. It is a Catholic church that looks like a historic English parish church. In that alone lies much of the history of Ireland. If it is necessary for me to visit physical places to carry out my I can’t think of a better place to go. I had an afternoon of meetings with architect, parish priest and quantity surveyor along with a final survey and information gathering session.

Cheta came with me, so we planned an extra day to hang out and do  a spot of touring. The morning was spent working and after lunch we set off in search of adventure. We carried on along the road going south-west from Adare and Limerick, down to the coast and the wild edge of Ireland. The Ring of Kerry lies ahead with the Atlantic ocean and the McGillycuddy Reeks. The tourism site describes it as follows:

The Ring of Kerry has some of the finest beaches in Europe that provide all the facilities for a traditional seaside holiday. Above all the Ring of Kerry provides an amazing insight into the ancient heritage of Ireland – see the Iron Age Forts & Ogham Stones, Old Monasteries and a landscape carved out of rock by the last Ice Age 10,000 years ago.

First we stop off in Abbeyfeale to see a church I lit a few years ago. I love returning to my projects to see how they are after years of constant use. It’s great to see this busy, modern church in use and being the centre of activity in this small Irish town.

It’s a cold, wet, grey day, the kind that is typical of the west coast of Ireland, the kind that gives this area its special magic. We see snow-clad peaks ahead and feel the energy of this remote area. Many people visit it but outside the tourist season Kerry takes on a emptiness that goes to the heart of Irish culture and history. We feel excited as we reach the ocean with dark looming clouds overhead and steep cliffs below.

The road sweeps round the mountains, above the cliffs, always threatening to dump you in the amazingly clear ocean. We pass ancient monasteries reminding us that the west of Ireland remained a seat of learning through the destruction of the Dark Ages. The Celtic Monks of Ireland were able to retain the books and knowledge essential for the restoration of civilisation. It is hard to understand this seeing the remoteness of the area but it is easy to understand the subsequent invasion and destruction by the Vikings as they rampaged down the coasts of Europe.

One of the most interesting parts of the trip is our visit to Valentia Island at the very western end of the promontory. We reach it by a small car ferry, something I still find slightly romantic in this age of fast communications. The island is famous as the start of the first commercial telegraph cable to America enabling the resolution of the uncertainty over the longitude of America, out by around 850 metres. We find the derelict slate quarry responsible for roofing the British Houses of Parliament. It leaves an enormous grotto in the rock face with a statue of Mary set above it in the rock.

The light fades as we drive through the National Park and the Lakes of Killarney. The land changes character again away from the ocean and cliffs to a wild inland area of heather and boulders, reminding us of its origin as the site of great glaciers of the Ice Age.

We drive back to Adare in the darkness full of the history and wonder of this area and full of gratitude to my Irish clients who enabled us to spend this brief time under the spell of The Ring of Kerry.

We take time out to enjoy these forays into an area, its culture, history and geography. It helps us to understand our travelling lifestyle and it helps us to enjoy the work we do on the road.

Some examples: fine AU$150 for driving 108km/hr on a completely empty 100km/hr highway, fine for parking the car with the nose in the wrong direction, not allowed to take plastic water bottles into a fenced off area on new year’s eve, not allowed to take a bottle of champagne to the park to watch the fireworks, fine AU$200 for speeding with no consideration whatsoever to the fact that we were eloping giant honking trucks that were going way faster that the 100km/hr limit after two attempt to run us off the road altogether, shops closing at 3pm, bars and restaurants – even in Brisbane for that matter – closing at 9:00pm or 9:30pm…

The top was having to take 0.28kg out of my suitcase, because the weight limit is 20kg, so 20.28kg is unacceptable. I demonstratively took out some underwear and my bra!

All this has really shifted my perspective of this country. Shifted it from looking into permanent residency, to this is not the place for me. What happened?

Over the past 3 years I have been visiting travelling up and down the east coast tourist strip. This time we moved away from the coast and went more inland, about 50km. And it got more and more sleepy as we drove on. Most of the land is being developed for retirement villages that basically all look the same. Rows of houses with a giant mall next to it. The mall closes at 6:30pm and all of Sundays. Question: what do people do here to meet their need for variety. Because outside of these malls, there is nothing. And I mean nothing. We are a bit taken aback by that.

Every now and then Graham and I knock off at 3pm and embark on some sightseeing. This proves to be hardly possible in this region (Brisbane/Bundaberg); apart from the physical distances, you have to take in account that the sun sets at 6:30pm – and it sets very fast, almost as if someone turns off the light!

We made one attempt, visiting the small town of Childers, described to us by the house owners as still containing large numbers of original Queenslander houses. By the time we get there (4pm) it resembles a ghost town. Stores closed around 3:30pm, restaurants and bars are set for locking up at 9pm. What do they do after that, we wondered… The house owners helped us out there: life here is geared towards the daylight. Most people rise between 5pm and 6pm and start their day.

Gin Gin marked the end of our 4 month stay in Australia. During this time I have come to see Australia from the inside out. And my conclusion: nice for a holiday – not suitable for permanent living:-)